The Custom Tailor
Bespoke Tailor Fashion Designer Online
The Custom Tailor & Brand Name Designer by Petersen Cerruti
335/148 Scenery Project
Sukaphibal 6 Road, Bangpli Yai, Bangpli District,
Samutprakan, Samutprakan 10540
alt: 084-674-7718 , 081-612-6398
How to order a custom made suit
What should you spend?
Spend what you can afford of course stay within your budget. There are basically 4 types of suit categories.
1. Bespoke - Is custom made the word Bespoke originates from and old tailoring term meaning that a certain fabric has been “spoken for” by a customer and is therefore no longer for sale. Fully custom made with multiple fittings. price ranges from $300 - $25,000
2. Made to measure - Adjustments made to a standard pattern according to your measurements. More alterations upon delivery, very good fit. price ranges form $200 - $8,000
3. Off the rack altered - Manufactured to a standard pattern; altered after purchase; pretty good fit price ranges $100 - $6,000
4. Off the rack- Premade suit bought off the rack and standard size. You can get limited alterations if you take it to a tailor. price ranges $ 80 - $6,000
Travel the World
I must mention I have ordered suits in various parts of the World other than the USA or UK with extremely good craftsmanship. However to separate the bad from the good and yes even sometimes the ugly, you must request and expect certain qualities from your tailor and you will get very good results. No matter what language your tailor speaks good craftsmanship is universal in any language. Another very important tip on how to order a custom made suit is that when you properly ask the right questions about the production of your suit the final outcome will be a properly made tailored suit, one that you will be very pleased with.
Finding the right style
First you will have to find the right style. A suggested way to get ideas in finding the right style. You can either start by trying to use existing designs. Italian designs are the most well known or you can look in popular magazines such as GQ or you can reference online periodicals all are great resources to get you in tune with the right style to accommodate your body type. A good tailor can easily imitate a picture or design to your own specifications and can change the fabric to keep in line with your budget or color scheme.
"Suit types to accommodate different body types"
Single Breasted or Double Breasted Suits these suits most commonly makes the wearer look slimmer. On single-breasted suits, a two or three button closure is standard however more buttons are appropriate according to your height but you probably should never get more than three. Four or six button closure are standard for Double Breasted suits, though six is considered to be more stylish.
Two or Three Piece A coat and trousers worn with a vest isn't really seen too much these days it is nowadays considered to be kinda formal but it is still a desired look for some professionals. The more common look on today's professional is the "business suit" it consists of shirt and trousers.
Single or Double Vent single vent are classic American. The double vent with the vents off to the sides are classic English.
Natural or Padded Shoulders this of course depends on the natural broadness of your shoulders you of course want your suit to follow the line of your body. So of course if you already have broad shoulders you don't want to add to them you might get shoulders resembling Frankenstein's little brother.
Peak or Notched Lapels are pretty much standard on the American single-breasted business suit, though peaked lapels are the more stylish. Peaked lapels give the illusion of added height. Take into consideration that double-breasted suits should always have peaked lapels.
Selecting the right Fabric
When you go to a tailor suit shop you will see yards and yards of fabric. This can of course be overwhelming. Don't be overwhelmed their are many styles but you should be more concerned with the different kinds of fabric and not the styles. In this section is a very crucial important tip on how to order a custom made suit and select the right type of fabric that best suits the occasion that you will wear your suit in and of course that will add to the rest of your wardrobe. Of course a charcoal grey would go great for an interview. You will have the opportunity to choose from any number of fabrics including wool blends, silk or even cashmere. Make sure you not only look at but also touch the fabric swatches or samples to get a more accurate idea of what will work for you.
"Select as highest quality grade of fabric that your budget can afford"
if you select the right grade and quality of fabric for your suit style and budget this will of course give your suit the best look and also increase the lifetime of your suit.
Get a quote from the tailor
Get a quote from the tailor when you have all the specifications. Obviously, the prices can vary from place to place and the actual cost of the tailors services for measuring and fitting can also vary dramatically. Get an all-inclusive cost for your customized suit.
"don't forget to schedule your fittings"
Set aside time to have a professional fitting and discuss the various options with the tailor. Obviously, the right fit is the essential part of a tailor made suit and should only take a couple of minutes with a professional.
When discussing any design modifications.
discuss the various options with the tailor. Obviously, the right fit is the essential part of a tailor made suit and should only take a couple of minutes with a professional. Below are just some things to consider.
Multi cuts in the US and the UK tailors generally do not participate in what is called multi cuts. The purpose of a multi cut is to save time. It is when a tailor cuts a particular suit piece in multiples. For instance they will cut a size 32 pair of pants and maybe cut 4 or 5 pieces all together at one time. Multi cuts causes the pieces when stitched together to be uneven or lopsided when sown. It is visible if you look at the seat of the pants on the inseem stitch and you will sometimes see the flange uneven one side bigger than the other. This causes complications later. Let's say you pick up some weight and you later want to get them taken out. Multi cutting is common practice in Asia so be sure to ask your suit sales representative if their shop uses this procedure.
Canvas Lining be sure to ask if your suit will have a hand stitch canvas lining when someone looks at your suit it is very noticeable and a trademark of a well tailored made suit. In most ready made suits, the lining is a piece of synthetic material fused to the fabric with vegetable glue, resulting in a lifeless shape prone to puckering. A custom suit’s lining is made of canvas stitched in by hand, giving the suit a more defined structure in addition to longevity and greater comfort.
Real Silk Interior be sure to ask if your suit will have a silk interior in the color or pattern of your choice or ask your tailor is this an extra cost.
Working buttonholes on the sleeves or surgeon cuffs
"The Right Fit"
Suit Jacket the suit jacket length should be able to cover the posterior with a half inch to spare.
Collar should fit snugly around the back of the neck and not hover in the air above it.
Lapels Lapels should lie flat against the chest and not pucker outward.
Sleeves they should fall in a straight line over the shoulders, particularly the inseem where the shoulder and sleeve is joined. also not stick out an extra inch beyond the shoulders, and they should not form a dent of extra fabric at the top of the sleeve. Sleeve length should fall to the wrist, not the beginning of the hand. A small amount of shirt cuff should show.
Pants or Trousers Pants should fall straight from the waist with no wrinkles or pulling over the belly and no tugging in the crotch. If pleated, the pleats should not pull apart. The inseam of pants should break slightly on the shoe, but excess fabric should not bunch up around the ankles.
Wool Fabric Care Tips & How to remove stains
Although Thomas Jefferson decreed that "all men were created equal", when it comes to body type and clothing, that bold statement is simply untrue. As a result of having fewer curves, male bodies may vary less in form than women's bodies, but nevertheless, variation does exist and knowing how to dress for your body type as well as which styles to avoid is the key to honing your personal style.
One thing to always keep in mind when shopping for new clothes is that the fit of the garment is its ultimate test. If an expensive jacket just isn't right for your body, it's going to look bad no matter what the price tag. Conversely, a tailor made garment will complement your body and complexion. Especially with Tailor Designs master tailors they will be able to advise you on styles and colours best suited to you.
Fashion is not a democracy. In the style stakes, no one look exists to make all bodies equally beautiful. However, there are a few decrees that everyone can follow to look their personal best. First, make your tailor your new best friend. No matter what your height or size, only a qualified tailor will be able to ensure your clothes are optimally flattering for your body type. Second, learn what looks good on you and resist jumping on the fad bandwagon (acid-washed, skinny jeans, anyone?).
It's great to experiment with trendy pieces here and there, but if you try it out in the shop and it doesn't look good, just forget about it and stick to what you know makes you look and feel great. Follow these rules and you'll significantly increase your chances of being voted best-dressed guy around.
* THE BULKY MAN
* THE SKINNY MAN
* THE SHORT MAN
* THE TALL MAN
The Bulky Man:
Stay away from horizontal stripes
If there's a little more of you to love, particularly in the stomach area, avoid any kind of horizontal stripe. While you're at it, avoid diagonal stripes too. What you should wear with pride, however, are shirts and trousers with vertical stripes. Vertical stripes draw the eye downward, elongating your silhouette and visually slimming it. Pinstripe suits are the perfect dress-up clothes for you, especially paired with a crisp black dress shirt underneath. Pinstripe dress shirts will also look great when mixed with dark jeans or black trousers. For casual wear, try to find a pair of dark corduroys with slim stripes that are made from thin material.
Avoid double-vented jackets
The slits in the back of your jacket are referred to as vents. All jackets should cover your bottom. However, if you have a larger behind that makes you feel a bit self-conscious, stay away from blazers and jackets that are double-vented (the ones with two slits in the back) as this cut will draw attention to your posterior. To camouflage a wider rear, go with single-vented jackets or jackets without any vents. If you already own a double-vented jacket that you love, a professional tailor should be able to sew up the slits for you at a fairly minimal cost.
A shirt and trousers in two extremely contrasting colors -- like black and white -- will break you in half and make a large middle stand out. Choose tops and bottoms that are identical or similar in color to create a cleaner visual impression and to look 10 pounds slimmer instantly. And, of course, choose all black for the most slimming effect, but add some colored accessories to avoid looking like you have a funeral to attend.
Wear a belt
A belt will nip in your waistline and make it appear slimmer. Just be sure not to make it so tight that you have a belly overhang.
The Skinny Man:
Loads of men and women envy their skinnier counterparts that can eat as much junk food as they want without gaining an ounce. People tend to forget that being too thin can be just as problematic as being overweight. It's hard to find clothes that fit and complement their thinner bodies.
The most efficient way to solve the problem is to join the gym and eat more food that will add muscle mass to a bony body. But in reality, it's not always that easy and many men are destined to remain skinny. So the next best thing is to just work around heredity.
Avoid monochromatic looks
If you wear a solid color from head to toe (especially black), you'll seem even thinner than you are, so break up your look by wearing a few different colors in your outfit. Fortunately, playing around with the colour palette should be fun and you'll get to experiment with a lot of different looks.
Choose fitted shirts
Loose-fitting, untucked shirts will billow around you and make you look like the mainsail on a mast, so you'll want to choose something more fitted instead. While you should avoid skintight shirts because they will accentuate your bony upper half, do choose slim-cut shirts and learn how to layer them to fake a bit more mass.
Avoid round-toed shoes
If you're really tall, shoes with a round toe will make you look disproportionate. To balance out your shape, go for square-toed shoes. When it comes to dress shoes and city shoes, finding square-toe shoes should not present a problem. If you're at the gym or playing a sport, however, square-toe shoes will be harder to find, so just avoid anything with an overly round shape.
Choose lighter colours
Lighter colors will make you appear slightly larger, so choose whites, creams, light blues, light grays, and pastels to visually bulk you up a bit.
The Short Man:
The rise in your pants is the distance between the crotch of your pants and the waistband. Shorter men should wear the smallest rise in their pants that they can get away with because a really long rise will make you look like you have a negative butt, as well as making what you've got in front look nonexistent. In contrast, a short rise will visually elongate your legs and avoid making your crotch and bottom area look baggy and empty.
Opt for square-toed shoes
Pointy-toe shoes are only OK when you're taller and your pant leg can cover most of your shoe. If you are smaller, however, long shoes or really big, bulky ones will make you look like less of a professional and more like a joker. Square-toe shoes are best for you.
Wear heels on your shoes
Although you should avoid wearing overly bulky shoes, you should buy shoes with a substantial heel. Dress boots are a great option for shorter men, and there are so many great styles available nowadays that can be paired with everything from jeans to a suit. To really give yourself added height, wear your dress boots with a longer pant leg that comes to the floor to disguise the heel.
Clever accessories, like a great necklace, tie or hat can keep people's eyes on your face, making them less likely to pay attention to your stature. Of all your accessory choices, a hat is probably best as it is a fantastic way to provide the illusion of an extra inch or two of height.
Avoid really big prints
On smaller bodies, giant prints will overwhelm. One way to add quirk to your closet with prints is to choose small prints, like a graphic black and white print or small checks. So if you're shorter, have fun with your wardrobe by keeping your prints proportionate to your body.
Choose a slimmer necktie
Slimmer to medium-sized neckties will avoid overwhelming your frame. Large ties should be avoided if you are short because they will make your body seem disproportionate by comparison. If you are very short, you might want to check out ties that are both slimmer and shorter.
The Tall Man:
Why would tall guys actually complain? Surprisingly, very tall men have a hard time finding things that fit well. Also, when they aren't properly dressed, they often appear clumsy and awkward. Therefore, to avoid looking gawky, read these simple tips and spruce up your personal style.
* Avoid wearing very fitted suits and jackets, because you don't want to advertise stick thin arms and legs.
* Make sure your top fits comfortably around your chest and shoulders.
* Steer clear of baggy clothing; flapping fabric is very unattractive.
* Your pants should be worn over your hips. Also, be sure to wear high-rise (a longer distance between the crotch of your pants and the top of the waistband) pants.
* Make sure your trousers fall freely on your shoes and avoid revealing your socks.
* To avoid looking like a lollipop, don't wear blazers or jackets with big shoulder pads.
Choosing the Right Complexion
Choosing a suit color is one of the most overlooked areas in the quest for the perfect suit. This is because many men choose a suit color based on what color they like looking at rather than what color looks best on them or which color is best for the situation.This article will go into skin shades, body types, and even different events that require the use of a suit. Colors discussed in this article are black, blue, brown, gray, and tan.
The black suit is great for both formal and somber events such as funerals, proms, and weddings. This suit looks good on all skin colors and is acceptable for all different body types. However, you will find that this color does have a slimming effect and will look best on larger frames.
The blue suit is best for the office and is the number one interview suit, (also known as the power suit). Men with lighter skin shades will loo\k better in this color than men with darker skin shades. All body types look good in this color but thinner men benefit from it the most.
Wearing a brown suit is useful when you want to separate yourself from the majority without appearing flashy. You can wear this color to the office and to most formal occasions. Men with darker skin look best in this color. Small to large body types can all wear this color
The gray suit is a staple for any mans wardrobe. This suit comes in varying shades of gray but if you can only buy one make sure it is charcoal gray. Men with medium builds look best in this color. All skin shades look fantastic in this color on any day of the week.
Wearing a tan suit in a colder climate is a bad idea. This suit is reserved for spring and summer events. Medium and slender builds with darker skin skin shades look best in this color suit.
General Knowledge About Fabric
What does the “Super” mean as in “Super 100’s” wool?
This is a term originally created by the British Wool Textile Export Corporation. It refers to the degree of fineness, or more precisely, the length of fibre that can be spun from a pound of wool, i.e, the finer the wool, the greater its length per pound. It is now measured by thickness in Microns, a micron beinga thousand of a millimetre. As a comparison, a human hair is about 50 microns in diameter, and the average sheep wool about 25 microns. The ‘Super’ scale is roughly as follows:
Super 80’s 19.5 microns
Super 90’s 19.0 microns
Super 100’s 18.5 microns
Super 120’s 17.5 microns
Super 130’s 16.5 microns
Super 140’s 16 microns
Super 150’s 15.5 microns
Super 180’s 13.5 microns
Super 200’s 13 microns
The higher the ‘Super’ rating, the finer the cloth, and the more expensive it becomes.
What does ‘Worsted’ mean?
Worsted is a system of spinning that uses long tightly twisted fibres, which are combed to lie parallel. The result is a strong, smooth and versatile fabric that can be made in a variety of weights according to the climate. For example, lightweight worsted wool is a very good choice for suits and trousers in warm climates or during summer. The name comes from Worstead in Norfolk, England where it was first made.
Does Egyptian Cotton come exclusively from Egypt?
Although Egypt still produces some of the world's finest cotton, hybrids of the original Egyptian species are now grown in a number of countries, including the USA, and also called ‘Egyptian Cotton’ There is currently no hallmark or guarantee of quality or originality other than experience, feel and touch. Egyptian Cotton is absolutely one of our favourites, and we only stock the highest quality available.
Why is Egyptian Cotton so highly praised?
Egyptian Cotton, especially that produced in the Nile River Valley, is one of the world's best, with long, fine fibres measuring up to 2 inches long, which contributes to its very high quality. It is strong, resilient, elegant, and very comfortable to wear.
What is ‘Mercerised’ Cotton?
This is a process named after John Mercer, who discovered it when he treated cotton with caustic soda, observing that it increased its affinity for dyes, resulting in faster colours, and a more uniform appearance.
What is combed cotton?
Combing is a process often combined with Mercerisation. It removes all short fibres , and renders a smoother, more comfortable texture.
What's the difference between Cotton and Linen?
Cotton is made from the seed pod of the cotton plant, and linen is manufactured from the stem of the flax plant. Linen fibres are stronger than cotton, and linen fabrics make excellent suits, shirts and dresses as well as bed sheets, tablecloths etc.
Where does Gabardine come from?
It does not come from a specific country. It is a term given to a tightly woven hard-wearing fabric, mostly a wool twill, often blended with rayon or cotton. Because of its durability, it is ideal for suits and jackets.
Why is a T Shirt so-called?
We had to look this one up! We are told the name originated from a US Navy undergarment issue, which was introduced in the 1880's. This was a waist-length/half sleeve garment, which when spread flat, formed a perfect letter "T"
Does Cashmere come from Kashmir?
No, it comes from the soft undercoat of the Kashmir goat, indigenous to Mongolia.
Is Cashmere the most expensive cloth?
No, this title belongs to Vicuna, which comes from the fleece of small wild animals of the same name. They belong to the llama family, and roam the high slopes in the central Andes, mostly above 5000 metres. Vicuna is the finest, softest animal fibre in the world, and the most expensive.
The Custom Tailor by Petersen Cerruti
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335/148 Scenery Project
Sukaphibal 6 Road, Bangpli Yai, Bangpli District,
Samutprakan, Samutprakan 10540
alt: 084-674-7718 , 081-612-6398